After a two-year delay, this big, informal, great-looking tapas restaurant is open and packing in the crowds. We were quite taken with the black mussels in a robust tomatoey-oniony sofrito; our only complaint was that the accompanying bread was rather thin and plain. Grilled piquillo peppers came stuffed with tasty crab and served in a fun sardine tin. Arrós caçadora—“hunter’s style rice”—boasted rosemary rice, chicken, rabbit, and pancetta, and while it was all right, it wasn’t amazing. The frittata-like Spanish tortilla was meh, lacking much evidence of the promised manchego. But the evening finished on an up note with three exceptional desserts, notably the mel i mató, lovely goat-cheese mousse atop a slice of walnut torte sided by sticky honeycomb and drizzled with sherry gastrique. (9/13)