Katch 22
citycuisinepricedrinksstars
American
$$-$$$
Full Bar
0
addresshourscontact
700 Durham Dr [map]
L & D Tue-Sat.
832-804-7281

With names like Mandola and Clemens—Roger Clemens’ son Kory is the executive chef, and Luke Mandola, of the local restaurant dynasty, is a principal business partner—we anticipated a powerhouse. What we got was hit or miss. The hits include the polished space, which is a lively homage to sports in general and Rogers’s number (22) in particular. If you’re watching the big game, there’s not a bad seat in the house. A major hit from the menu is the dynamite skewered quail breast, wrapped in jalapeño bacon and grilled. Sadly, there are misses, like fried asparagus so tough we couldn’t chew it and a well-done cheeseburger topped with a lone Roma tomato, all of which was dwarfed by an oversized bun. At least the sliders, grilled shrimp on white buns, were fine (though why not toast the bread?). Still, we’ll give it another go. Root, root for the home team! (9/13)

Tags: FOOD

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