Borrowing its name from an immortal song by Mexican songsmith Agustín Lara, Maria Bonita harks back to the Mexico of yesteryear.  Papel picado banners stir in the breeze, and the rhythmic slap of tortilla-making creates its own sound track. From the cocina emerge hearty platters heavy with staples like build-your-own guacamole, burritos stuffed with queso asado and shredded beef, and enchiladas draped in mole and filled with cotija. A hopping bar is thoughtfully shielded from the main restaurant, happily allowing for conversation. (9/13)