Texas's Dismal 2013 Grape Harvest

Due to record-breaking late spring frosts, this year's grape harvest will go down in history as one of the worst.
Tue September 3, 2013 9:45 am
AP Photo | Abilene Reporter News, Thomas Metthe

Summer is almost over, and while many of us are dealing with the new school year, celebrating the start of football season, or perhaps simply just wishing for cooler fall temperatures, it’s worth noting that for the past few weeks Texas grape growers and winemakers have been in the thick of harvesting grapes for the 2013 season. It’s an arduous two- to three-month process that often lasts from August to early October and in most years, can have industry professionals working around the clock to pick and press grapes at their peak of perfection.

But this year looks to be different. 

Based on a series of late spring freezes, Texas winemakers are looking at a dismal harvest. Last April was one of the coldest on record in both the High Plains and Hill Country viticultural appellations, and the High Plains was done in on May 3 by the worst spring freeze in recorded history since 1911. 

The unseasonably cold weather halted the progression of developing grape clusters by killing the early buds. Buds typically break in March or April, and when there are late spring freezes, it stunts their growth. In some cases, it can even damage or kill the entire vine. 

While many grape growers speculated that the freeze would end the 2013 harvest before it even began, there was still some hope for a second budding. Often times, the vines that survive a freeze will put out a second bud that can develop fruit, though usually at a lesser quality than an original bud. But now that we’re in the thick of the harvest season, the proof is in the one-ton bins—or in most cases this year, the five gallon buckets. 

“It’s hard to express how devastating the crop is this year,” said Cliff Bingham of Bingham Family Vineyards , who manages 225 acres of vineyards for about two dozen wineries. “We hope to harvest maybe two percent of what we usually bring in, which is basically just zero when you consider that we were projecting about 1,300 tons of fruit. Now we’re looking at about ten to twenty tons.” 

“We have zero,” said Neal Newsom of Newsom Vineyards , who manages about 130 acres of vineyards for a dozen wineries in the state. “We were completely frozen out and we’re not able to harvest anything. We’ve already cut our losses and started retraining the vines that didn’t make it through the freeze.” 

Grim news is prevalent throughout much of the High Plains growers, though some, including VJ Reddy of Reddy Vineyards and Andy Timmons of Lost Draw Vineyards, may be looking at yields closer to twenty percent each, which is good news for some of the wineries they sell grapes to including William Chris Vineyards in Hye, Texas. 

“There’s definitely a lot of bad news coming from our High Plains vineyards, but the good news is the fruit that we are seeing is pretty incredible,” said Chris Brundrett of William Chris Vineyards, who is expecting to see a few tons of red grapes such as Mourvedre from Timmons’ Lost Draw Vineyards. “We’re only getting about twenty percent of our annual estimate from the High Plains, but we’re so thankful to the skill and expertise farmers like Andy Timmons have been able to lend during times like this.” 

In the Hill Country, vineyards are faring slightly better. The Central Texas region also suffered from late spring freezes, but many wineries who source their fruit from this area are seeing better yields overall. Fall Creek Vineyards lost a lot of their co-opted fruit from the Salt Lick Vineyards in Driftwood, but Sergio Cuadra, the winery’s new winemaker from Chile, is pleased to claim much of the expected fruit from the Dotson-Cervantes vineyard in Voca as well as from their estate fruit in Tow near Lake Buchanan. 

“We’re seeing lower yields than we expected, but it happens everywhere,” said Cuadra, who has traveled extensively to vineyards all over the world. “Overall, I’m impressed by how good the vines and grapes look here.” 

So what does this mean for winemakers? For one, they’ve had to quickly come up with solutions to their problems. In many cases, some wineries will just have to work with what they have. Others, including Pedernales Cellars have intentionally managed vineyards in both the High Plains and the Hill Country to try to survive on the better performing region when there is an off year, like this one. 

“We grow a lot of red grapes in our Hill Country vineyards, which will help us have wines for this year,” said Pedernales winemaker David Kuhlken.  

But while they can grow grapes like Tempranillo in both of these regions, other grapes like the winery’s signature Viognier, can only be grown in the High Plains.

“Our white grapes like Viognier are just not going to happen this year,” said Kuhlken. “We’ll have to make up in red wine what we’re missing in whites from the High Plains. It’s just the world of Texas wine.”

This year, Viognier was wiped out, which means if you’ve become a fan of Texas Viognier, ration what you have because you’ll have to wait until next year to see more.  

Other wineries such as William Chris Vineyards, which heavily sources grapes from the High Plains, began searching for grapes elsewhere throughout the state as soon as they heard about the May 3 freeze. 

“We’re looking at about 45 percent of production from our usual Hill Country vineyards, but we also looked to smaller growers around us who we had not worked with before as well as to vineyards in San Angelo and in East Texas as well,” said Chris Brundrett. “We were amazed by the grapes we received from Longview and Tyler.”

Down in the Hill Country near Driftwood, Duchman Family Winery  is hoping they can rely on the wine they currently have in inventory to last them through the year. 

“This year is just brutal,” said Duchman winemaker Dave Reilly. “Fortunately, our business model allows

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