Along about May
the nuts begin to form, in close-growing clusters at the
tips of stubby twigs. Inside each green husk is a droplet
of nutrient-filled liquid--the substance that will
eventually become a pecan. As the kernel takes on shape
and size, a papery skin develops around the jellylike
matter. It is clear and tasteless now, but if you cut
into the nut, the tannin in the juices will stain your
fingers brown. By September or October, when the sere
husk has split, squirrels and blue jays are attacking in
waves. On Saturday mornings children and elderly gents
search out the nuts amid drifts of crackling leaves and
lug the treasures home, there to be put to their highest
and best use in the golden-amber transubstantiation of
sugar, syrup, eggs, butter, and vanilla that is Texas
pecan pie.
Pecans have
grown in Texas since prehistoric times. Indians gratefully
ate them and also gave them their name, an Algonquian word
meaning a nut that it takes a stone to crack. A member of
the family that includes walnuts and hickories, the pecan
grows natively only in the south central and southeastern
United Staes and in northern Mexico, in rich river-bottom
soil where its ample roots spread out to cover twice the
area of its branches and go down as far as 40 feet. It
reaches its greatest diameter (6 feet) and height (130
feet) in Texas, which makes Texas the best place in the
world to raise pecans.
Cabeza de
Vaca, the first European to walk across Texas, was also the first to enjoy Texas pecans.
Had it not been for the protein-rich nuts, in fact, he would never have
made it through the murderous winter of 1532. A few hundred years
later, fur traders running their beaver traps along Southern streams
gathered up pecans and carted them over the mountains to civilization,
where they became known as Mississippi nuts and Illinois nuts.
Gentlemen farmers Thomas Jefferson and George Washington were among the
many who planted these curiosities in their yards.
Ironically, the abundance of the tree almost led to its
extinction in the early part of this century. Texas settlers looked
around them and saw, on the banks of almost every river and stream,
pecan groves that seemed to stretch into infinity. Without compunction
they chopped the trees down to grow cotton and turned the fine, hard timber into ax handles, wagon parts,
and firewood. Some lordly specimens were felled, golden-egg fashion,
just to make it easy for boys to swarm through the branches and plunder
the nuts. By 1900 the pecan was in serious trouble. Yet even while this
depredation was occurring, pioneer growers like F. A. Swinden and J. H.
Burkett were planting groves and experimenting with new varieties.
Some of the credit for the turnaround in the
status of the pecan must
also go to Texas governor James S. Hogg, a sentimentalist who said that
when he died he wanted no monument of stone, but instead, "Let my
children plant at the head of my grave a pecan tree and at my feet an
old-fashioned wlanut tree. And when these trees shall bear, let the
pecans and walnuts be given out among the plain people of Texas so they
may plant them and make Texas a land of trees." In 1919, thanks to Hogg,
the pecan was named the state tree.
Today the pecan is thriving. In 1981 the Texas harvest was 62 million
pounds (almost a fifth of the national total) and had a value of $42
million. And though the industry is clearly going in the direction of
scientifically managed groves that produce big, voluptuous pecans, for
now the bulk of the state’s output still comes from great trees like the
ones that were here when our forefathers rattled up in mule-drawn wagons
150 years ago. And this is as it should be. The abiding affection
people have for the pecan did not develop from contemplating tidy rows
of grafted trees. It came, rather, from walking in the deep shade of a
grove of centenarians, staring up at their leaves, idly picking up their
autumn bounty. These old giants have lived through a lot, and the
feisty native pecans they produce embody the wisdom of their struggle. |