Legendary barbecue curmudgeon John Mueller has migrated to Austin’s east side, where his sizeable fan base lines up early to get Flintstone-esque beef ribs and magnificent fatty brisket, deeply oak-smoked and looking as if it’s been dredged in coarse-ground black pepper. The pork shoulder is out of this world, with a touch of sweetness and a great crust. In fact, we’ve hardly ever had any meat that was less than excellent. Sadly, we can’t say the same about the sides, but the oniony sauce is super (though with meat this good, who needs it?). Trailer and smoker are parked on a vacant lot behind a chain-link fence (enter on Pedernales).
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