As the epicenter of a growing hummus empire, this cafe, an extension of the commercial kitchen, is no-frills. But the dolmas, chock-full of pine nuts and currants, are delectable; the fuchsia-hued beet salad is creamy and garlicky; and the lamb gyro is almost airy (we ate the accompanying tzatziki straight from the container). Dry pucks of falafel did not delight us, but the silky baba ghanouj redeemed them.