Much hand-wringing greeted Jezebel’s jackets-required dress code in Austin, where we go apoplectic at the notion of being separated from our flip-flops. So  kudos to Parind Vora for trying to raise the bar, with results that are equal parts charming and amusing. You will spot a white glove; you may hear yourself addressed as “milady.” And then there’s the taking of the order (there is no menu), in which you answer questions meant to allow the chefs to design a multicourse meal just for you. After all that, the food almost takes a backseat, which is unfortunate, because some of it is quite good. Not a boring scallop sashimi in a slick of olive oil dotted with cacao nibs. But definitely an exquisite seared antelope crusted in tandoori masala. Being pampered amid candlelight and French pop and oil paintings of naked women (sigh) is fun, but will Austinites cotton to this level of formality? Will Jezebel walk that fine line between alienating worldly diners and intimidating novices? You can lead a horse to water . . .