Sometimes Austinites are dubious about interlopers, but the novelty of a Top Chef finalist from California has brought them in. The former location of Maria Maria takes advantage of the Warehouse District with oversized lamp shades in unbleached fabric and ropes of Edison bulbs hanging from the rafters. The main courses—a few large plates of primarily beef (“Land”) or seafood (“Ocean”)—seemed dull compared with a medley of small plates: an almost airy crab cake, baby brussels sprouts roasted with sugared walnuts, a Shiner Bock–braised short rib with a mess of fried onions. There are missteps, like strips of squid that weren’t crispy enough to hold up to the acidity of the accompanying slivers of Granny Smith apple and a skillet of shiitakes, egg-battered Texas toast, and cold ricotta that together weren’t greater than the parts. (9/13)