This hyperstylized, locally focused dining room has finally hit its stride. We started with a small plate of sea bass crudo, the heat of green habanero making the accompanying grapefruit even sweeter. Blue crab hush puppies, though a bit dense, contained generous lumps of crab. Tasty, tiny merguez sausages, paired with pickled romano beans, had a touch of heat; their flavor nicely balanced creamy corn ravioli with whole petite morels (we want to ask staff forager Valerie Broussard just where she finds such treasures). Dirty rice–stuffed quail, a hint over-seasoned, was satisfying, but we went batty over the tiny Staub casserole of wax beans and black-eyed peas topped with chunks of pork belly and soaking up a vinegary pork fat dressing. (8/12)