This ultra-casual Bolivar landmark is as much a destination as a restaurant. If there’s a line to get in, amuse yourself by watching barges glide by on the Intracoastal Waterway. As for the food, lump crab bathed in basil butter barely edges out the grilled stuffed shrimp as our warm-weather pick. Remarkably light boudin balls approach tennis ball size, and both the red beans and rice and wickedly murky seafood gumbo could convince us we were east of the Sabine.  (5/13)