There’s more of a relaxed feeling to this room nowadays; the decor is simpler, and coats are no longer required for men. But there’s nothing casual about the food. A cauliflower and caviar panna cotta came cleverly presented in a Petrossian caviar tin, with a tiny rice cracker and dashi “jelly” as accents. But the best item of the evening was carbonara ravioli encasing a soft egg; equally delicious were the sunchoke purée and crispy sweetbreads. Bruno Davaillon’s inventive food is a real treat. (5/13)