After a decade in East Dallas, this diminutive place continues to evolve under chef-partner Peja Krstic, who consistently brings modern touches to his inventive fusion of French and Vietnamese cuisine. Take the delightful crab salad: green leaf lettuce tossed in a preserved lemon–clove dressing and topped with cucumber, celery, scallions, Texas grapefruit, a generous portion of blue crab, and a garnish of toasted pine nuts. Another starter features yellowfin tuna from the Jersey coast, tossed with crunchy cucumber in a mortar-and-pestle dressing of ginger, garlic, lime leaf, and lime juice. Flaky oven-roasted halibut came on a bed of tiny spaetzle with a brown butter vinaigrette, and a whole melt-in-your-mouth grilled branzino was perfectly cooked under a lightly seared crust. Our giant slice of decadent chocolate cake was more than enough for two. Reflecting the chef’s Serbian heritage, the wine list includes bottles from not only California, France, and Italy but also Hungary, Croatia, and even the tiny Republic of San Marino.