There may be pricier seafood places in town, but the quality here holds its own against all comers. Mustard-colored walls, high hunter-green ceilings, black-and-white tile floors, and checkered tablecloths—it’s a lot like slipping into the Big Easy for a culinary holiday. The menu has not changed much in all these years, but when it ain’t broke . . . An appetizer of fried shrimp, a bowl of slightly sassy gumbo, fried red snapper with hush puppies, and lemon pie all added up to a feast. All we’d ask for is more-garlicky coleslaw. Expect expert service from the waiters; there are no kids working their way through college here.