Taupe and gray decor with a splash of subdued rusty red, coupled with the fact that diners can converse here without shouting, make for a soothing atmosphere. We were intrigued by the monkfish “osso buco,” with saffron risotto and orange gremolata floating in a small pool of lobster bisque; we found the fish to be rather sturdy, and that’s being kind. Presentation is everything here; witness the chocolate caramel bombe, a dark chocolate mousse enveloping a Twinkie-like dollop of caramel mousse with a side of vivid blood orange sorbet and a chocolate balsamic reduction. (6/12)