The pool table is gone and the center bar divides the now-more-civilized dining areas. In the mood for barbecue, our twosome ordered sandwiches: the chopped coffee-cured beef brisket served with bread-and-butter pickles, which seemed almost bland, and the North Carolina–style pulled pork with intense red vinegar and mustard sauces, which made our taste buds tingle (we know slaw in that regional sandwich is traditional, but we could have done without the strong blue cheese version piled on top). The cheese grits and the hominy casserole are addictive, as is the mescal Key lime pie (no hallucinations or hangovers involved). (6/12)