We love to start with the terrific ceviches here, but on this visit we went with the soup, a tasty cream of asparagus with black garlic foam, a dab of bacon “preserves,” and a crumbly topping of pine nut shortbread. Our tender slab of wood-fired flatiron steak, with a wonderfully piquant chimichurri, crushed potatoes, and house ricotta, was another excellent choice. Dessert-wise, a small round glass of maple panna cotta sprinkled with pepita granola and cherry “air” (again with the foam) was as winsome as it was delightful. (9/13)