This cavernous room, with a wall of glass, lends itself to conviviality (unfortunately, the brick-and-wood decor amplifies the happy clamor). Small plates abound, but we went big with an enormous smoky pork chop topped with a subtle bourbon sauce; sides of creamy white cheddar grits and sautéed vegetables made near-perfect accompaniments. For dessert, a one-inch-high slice of chèvre cheesecake with thick blueberry compote needed two diners to polish it off. (9/12)