Service at this downtown landmark is polished even at lunch, when surgeons in scrubs are welcomed as warmly as socialites in couture. Chef-owner Paco Vargas bustles between kitchen and tables, overseeing the plating of signature steak, snapper, and shrimp dishes. We ventured from our usual favorite, gallo pinto con carne, to try the ensalada mixta and the K.T. Delicias del Mar: avocado and tomato topped with lump crab in rémoulade, cold shrimp in raspberry chipotle dressing, and fresh snapper ceviche. (9/13)