Not illicit, but with a speakeasy feel, the Pass is accessed through a mysterious door, which slides back silently to admit your party to the inner sanctum. Elaborate set menus, myriad servers, and cozy banquettes only add to the sense of occasion (as do the prices). Dishes are artfully arranged, with cleverly contrasting colors, textures, and flavors, and most work well, like succulent little moon-shaped slices of duck sided by creamy foie gras with pickled blackberries. Some dishes surprise, like curried frozen yogurt with eggplant carpaccio. And some malfunction, like a lime “cocktail” in a plastic tube inserted into a slot in a dried orange; no one could get the top of the tube off without scissors. Nevertheless, it’s all great fun for a big night out. (9/13)