We like the funky use of shutters as wall coverings and dish towels as napkins; the place looks and feels like a neighborhood ice house gone slightly upscale. If you’re offered the thirteen-bean soup (no, we didn’t count) with sour cream and cheddar, just say yes. We also heartily endorse the slabs of chilled pork terrine atop sweet French-style purple mustard and the moist, oven-roasted chicken breast with masala-spiced mashed potatoes and a curry cream sauce—an inspired marriage of Southern and Indian cooking. (7/13)