Roots Bistro
citycuisinepricedrinksstars
Eclectic
$$
Beer & Wine
0
addresshourscontact
507 Westheimer Rd [map]
D Tue–Sat. B Sat & Sun.
713-524-1000

Several hits and a few misses marked our visit to this pretty inner Westheimer spot presided over by chef Chandler Rothbard. The mantra is “Local, organic, green,” which translates to dishes like raw beet “ravioli,” thinly sliced and layered with cashew crème and tarragon, and fire-roasted oyster and cremini mushrooms served on a stone with a smoking piece of wood. The bone-in pork chop and the braised veal mac and cheese, rich and creamy with white cheddar, fontina, and goat cheese, were both terrific. Less satisfying were tough antelope short ribs and the Veggie Mélange, a huge plate of roasted vegetables with unremarkable dipping sauces. We recovered nicely, though, with the moist double chocolate cake. (4/13)

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