The cool, industrial interior exudes warmth at this enterprise from pioneer locavore Monica Pope. The Madonna of Houston chefs, who reinvents her restaurants now and again, changes the menu daily, and fresh produce trumps all, as in a brilliant kale salad with briny anchovies and Parmesan shavings sautéed “green” beans, in various hues, with a side of onion jam. A spicy-sweet combo of radish, red onion, jícama, and pineapple elevates conch-and-hake ceviche to greatness. Finally, ruffled fusilli with a voluptuous chile-coconut broth features multicolored baby carrots and fresh-picked zucchini. (8/13)