There’s no more Zen-like alfresco setting than this River Oaks hideaway; picture umbrella tables and vine-covered walls. Since the lunchtime lines can be intimidating (think “Desperate Housewives of Houston”), we arrived early for dinner. Sipping sangria, we shared a perfectly dressed arugula and beet salad with shaved ricotta, then moved on to delightful entrées of rosemary-and-garlic-rubbed grilled shrimp atop Parmesan risotto and grilled redfish with a champagne-lemon cream sauce. (8/13)