Couples out for an anniversary, River Oaks folks, expense accounters, and out-of-towners all converge on this Houston icon on any given night. And few are disappointed, what with dishes like fettuccine with lump crab, sausage, and creamy vodka sauce; seared red snapper topped with crab and a Barolo reduction; and a rich, classic pappardelle bolognese. Our fave was actually a starter, a clever veal cutlet topped with burrata and a sunny-side-up egg, all atop blistered green beans and a sherry emulsion. Our only disappointment was the tagliata, a very fatty 20-ounce ribeye, sliced table-side, with a balsamic topping; it was way too much of a not very good thing. (6/13)