Tortas, Mexico’s everyman answer to Italy’s precious grilled panini, have been credited with fueling Mexico’s cities and villages at lunch. Here, street-side stands fragrant with diesel are replaced by an air-conditioned aerie with sleek counters, spartan tables, and the omnipresent ring of phone orders. Crisp on the outside but soft inside, bollilos (think mini baguettes) are heavily slathered with refried beans, layered with greens, and topped with hefty portions of brisket, pulled pork, or cumin-kissed chicken. Seal with creamy avocado or crema agria and your torta is self-contained sustenance ready for packing away or packing in. Summer is never distant with fresh fruit cocktails—shot through with lime and a liberal shake of powdered chile—tantalizingly sweet and brilliantly tangy.