After moving several years ago from New York, owner Grace Yungjakim opened a restaurant in a converted motel and started serving traditional Korean food with an impressive dedication to quality: she makes her kimchi from scratch; she orders only the tenderest cuts of pork for her mae-un samgyeopsal (spicy pork belly); and she drives to the coast every weekend to buy fresh flounder, which usually sells out early in the week. Our favorite of her dishes is the dolsot bibimbap, rice topped with bean sprouts, carrot, spinach, chopped beef, sesame oil, mild chile sauce, and egg; a quick stir cooks the ingredients in the hot clay bowl. Accompaniments include dried squid, kimchi, and pickled cucumbers. (11/12)