La Gloria’s Johnny Hernandez has done it again, with an innovative menu that starts with fruit and then goes way beyond it. We lunched on a salad of jícama with cantaloupe, cucumber, and avocado; an al pastor sandwich with pork, pineapple, and red onions; and lime-marinated tuna served with slivers of habanero and cucumber (our favorite). All of the dishes had an exuberant freshness and lightness. In the evening there are a few heftier options, like a chile en nogada (a thick-fleshed poblano stuffed with beef and fruit) and shrimp with mangos, pineapple, and orange. The airy, imaginatively decorated space adds to the appeal, as do the dozen or so cocktails and almost 50 tequilas, including one that goes for $50 a shot.