No two visits here ever match, for the menu changes with the speed of, well, the Mercury Monterey parked in front. Count on some of the city’s most inventive, even quirky, dishes, all prepared with élan and care. Hunks of tender pork in a savory broth with vegetables was a hit, but so was shrimp ceviche, pleasingly astringent, with coconut and pickled lime. There is plenty to keep vegetarians happy, including substantial bricks of fried cheese grits with pea salad. There’s nothing like the Monterey anywhere else in the city, and the lights strung merrily around the outdoor patio can make for a festive evening. (6/13)