Most of the dishes on the menu are worth a visit to this quietly informal neighborhood spot. Swordfish with capers and lemon was tart and tasty; another success was the emphatic ribeye with an appealingly mild green-peppercorn sauce. The kitchen slips up occasionally, as with a harshly astringent salad drenched in vinegar, but makes up for it with something like the exquisite mascarpone with blueberries and raspberries. (9/13)