With its Beach Boys, surfboards, and fishing nets decor, this laid-back little spot is perfect when one’s in need of some kick-back time, imaginative cocktails, and just plain good seafood. We started out with a flight of oysters, and the Bluepoint, with its enticing salinity, won the contest, transporting us to Long Island. The shrimp and grits and the sesame-crusted ahi are trusted favorites, and the paella turned out to be on par with some of the best we have had, with fresh and spicy clams, mussels, calamari, and shrimp over saffron rice. The only consistent negative is walking through a veil of cigarette smoke on the front porch.