The relaxed but slightly upscale atmosphere of Sonoma lends itself to casual conversation and leisurely dining. The tilapia, encrusted in Parmesan and sautéed with a light lemon-butter-basil sauce, was just right for a recent gathering with old friends, several of whom declared the grilled salmon salad with steamed asparagus and a dill sabayon dressing superb. Our young server was patiently good-natured with our spirited impromptu reunion. (12/12)