Biga on the Banks
Since the eighties, Bruce Auden has compiled a track record of extraordinarily fine cuisine, mostly in the French idiom but with accents of Asian fusion, in an elegant dining room overlooking the River Walk. If anything, his arc is still on the rise. We began with habanero jerk scallops with cheesy grits, a dish not as fearsomely hot as its name suggests but delightfully flavorful. Not always on the menu but worth ordering if available are the “chicken-fried” oysters with a tangy mustard hollandaise. The pomfret, a whitefish you don’t see every day, had a fresh, light taste, while the venison with eleven-spice Chinese seasoning showed what fusion cuisine is all about. Wines are expensive by local standards, but the list offers treats seldom found in other establishments (and our server knew the list well).