There’s always a cheerful buzz at this diminutive seafood shop. Try this: Shrimp toast—perhaps inspired by the Chinese-American appetizer—is a slab of grilled bread loaded with dense chunks of shrimp, magically bound together. Just like the hefty crab cake, it’s decadent and filling and comes with some lightly dressed palate-cleansing greens. The pan-fried burger, restrained in toppings, is ideal for civilized alfresco dining with friends as we resume group dining (but it’s hard to not stuff fistfuls of the accompanying crunchy potato sticks into your gullet). Pro tip: To-go oysters come packed in a cooler for those willing to shuck their own.