Given the explosion in creative farm-to-table bar food in town, the menu at this casual, South Texas ranch–inspired space isn’t quite as revelatory as it was a couple years ago. But it beats a lot of the newcomers, especially in the vegetable arena. We skipped our usual tempura-fried green beans in favor of the warm white-bean dip copiously swirled with duck fat (we didn’t say this was health food). Fried chicken, heavily brined, was fine, but the fresh okra served up in a little cast-iron dish was glorious (sherry vinegar kept things perky and slime-free). And while the spicy pork sausage was tasty, the french-fried potatoes were addictive. The bavette, slices of flap steak with a smidge of sweet potatoes and lots of crunchy hazelnuts, had us raving.