Contigo

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Wintertime Contigo lacks a bit of the charm of its summer iteration, despite the lure of a cozy fire pit under the tall trees. You’ll see a few brave souls huddled around it, but most are hunkered down inside the heated, plastic-walled tent, nursing hot toddies and wintry cocktails like an old-fashioned or a Root Down (sort of a Tom Collins amped up with spiced beet syrup). Our meal ran hot and cold as well, starting with the pacing: we were barely into our cocktails before we had our entire order of snacks and small and large plates set before us, watching helplessly as the warm dishes became considerably less so. A celery root salad with blood orange and ricotta was drab and texturally unappealing; grilled escarole with a poached egg and nicely spiced lentils was good but lacked pizzazz; and a bavette steak, a challenging cut of meat, was wonderfully seasoned but hard to cut and even harder to chew. On the other hand, the pigs in blankets were their usual reliable selves; the bubbling cast-iron dish of creamy rabbit and dumplings (actually biscuits) was as good as ever; and the simply named Broccoli—a gorgeous creation that reminded us of something that might be served at Contigo’s new sister restaurant, Gardner—was our favorite dish of the night: slightly charred florets bedded in a luxe potato puree and sprinkled with potato chips and Parmesan “dust.” (1/15)

City: Austin

Cuisine:

Drinks: Bar

Price: $-$$

Rating:

Address: 2027 Anchor Ln., Austin, TX, 78723

Hours: D Mon–Sat. B Sun.

Phone: 512-614-2260

Website: contigotexas.com/austin

Last updated: January 29, 2013