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Cooper’s Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que

2010: Ordering here is done at the pit at the entry, which is really just a showy warming pit. The real work is done out back in the (oddly uncelebrated) fire pits, where mesquite wood is burned down to coals for high-heat cooking. Low and slow is not the Cooper’s way. These meats are cooked with direct heat from coals rather than smoked with indirect heat and wood smoke. You’ll notice the lack of smokiness in the flavor, but this is what Cooper’s fan have come to expect. They’ve also come to expect some expensive meat covered in salt and pepper. I ordered a sampler of brisket, pork ribs, a beef rib, and a “Big Chop.” After all, Cooper’s calls themselves the “Home of the Big Chop.” As your meat is cut you have the option to have it dipped in a thin vinegar sauce, or to leave it naked. I dipped the chop and pork ribs, but left the brisket and beef rib untouched. It didn’t matter much after the kid weighing my meat wrapped it all together in a single piece of butcher paper thus spreading the sauce all around. I happily started with the big chop, which was tender, moist, and perfectly seasoned. Compared to their usual lathering of salt and pepper, they showed some restraint on this cut, and it benefited greatly. The beef rib was a mediocre piece of undercooked beef with far too much unrendered fat in the meat. Fat was a theme when it came to the brisket. The untrimmed slices were nearly half fat (three ounces of the seven ounces of meat I was charged for), which is forgivable unless you’re paying by the pound. The flavor was decent throughout, but bites with the crust were overwhelmed by salt and pepper. Pork ribs were better, with a lighter touch to the seasoning and a well-formed crust. The smoke was more evident in this cut than any other, and the overall flavor was great.

City: Fort Worth


BBQ Snob Rating: 2.5

Address: 301 Stockyards Blvd, Fort Worth, TX

Hours: Open Sun-€“Thur 11-€“8:30, Fri & Sat 11-€“9:30

Phone: 817-626-6464

Website: www.coopersbbqfortworth.com

Last updated: May 3, 2013