Don’t let the frat-row location in West Campus deter you from stopping by this charming historic limestone building. It has actual ambience, in the form of marble-topped tables in the bar and a courtyard patio. And the barbecue, which emerges from a mammoth smoker out back, is incredibly tasty. Best of show was the brisket, its bark the definition of unctuous, which made it worth parking three blocks away and walking through the construction site next door. The lacquered St. Louis pork ribs were our second favorite. We felt agnostic about the smashed potato salad but not about the smoked beets (served with a dollop of goat cheese, they may be the best root vegetable in the city). Smoked banana pudding, layered in a mason jar, was clever, but our favorite finish was another pour of the double-oaked Woodford Reserve from the impressive bourbon list.