After a three-year adventure that included a series of pop-up dinners that then inspired a very popular barbecue trailer, Travis and Emma Heim landed in a prime spot on the city’s hottest street. More restaurant hangout than old-fashioned joint, their renovated 1920s building is where hungry masses queue up for post oak–smoked meats. Early winners include brisket, with a woody crust and tender interior, jalapeño-cheddar sausage, and pulled pork. Sides deserving attention include the twice-baked-potato salad, collard greens, and crispy french fries. The big, happy surprise is a bar with a specially curated whiskey selection and a crafty cocktail list.