Horseshoe Hill Cafe
Gypsy cowboy cook Grady Spears returns to Fort Worth, this time marking his first venture into the North Side’s historic Stockyards neighborhood. It’s a rustic, cozy place, befitting an area known for cattle drives, rodeos, and the site of Cowtown’s last saloon gunfight. Doing what he does best, Spears serves us a mean chicken-fried steak, easily as good as those that made him famous back in his Reata days. We found perfection in the crackling, golden crust, hiding a tenderized steak inside. If you order it the Cowboy Way, it comes covered in a peppery cream gravy, but we also like the Vaquero style, with a cheese enchilada on top. Matt’s Way, a nod to his good pal the late Matt Martinez Jr., is topped with chile con carne. Those not seeking a cardiologist visit can opt for the satiny pan-seared beef tenderloin. Smaller items get thoughtful attention, including the squat Mason jar filled with Bob Armstrong Dip (queso, frijoles, taco meat, guacamole, and pico) and coleslaw amped up with blue cheese.