With its brass carriage lights and creamy muslin curtains, tiny Lenoir sets a lovely mood. Now, if only the blocky wooden benches were more comfortable! Chefs/spouses Todd Duplechan and Jessica Maher’s flexible $40 three-course prix fixe is one of the best bargains in town. If you’ve a mind to, you could even order two of a winner like the chicory and orange salad, its accompanying silky cauliflower flan given a sweet-savory treatment with miso caramel. Ditto for the exceptionally moist and tender rabbit roulades in a savory buttermilk-tinged broth sided by root vegetables seasoned with ras el hanout. Sometimes an element jumps the track, like the muddy-tasting tamal, though its odd polenta masa did encase a perfect soft-cooked egg and came with a boffo mushroom ragú. Dessert—like the heady malted date ice cream with sweet potato pot de crème—absolutely must be part of the equation. (4/15)


City: Austin


Drinks: Beer & wine

Price: $$$


Address: 1807 S. 1st, Austin, TX, 78704

Hours: D Tue–Sat.

Phone: 512-215-9778

Website: lenoirrestaurant.com/

Last updated: December 31, 1969