In the heart of downtown, just across from the railroad tracks on Commerce, a new barbecue place (with a bit of a steakhouse thrown in) has set up shop in the dining rooms that once belonged to Ruth’s Chris. This is no informal barbecue joint but a true meat-eater’s retreat. We ate well on the Pit Master’s Choice (three options from the array of smoked meats), as well as the Urban Cowboy BBQ Burger, made from ground brisket. We’ll be back, because there’s lots more to explore, like smoked trout and hog’s head cochinita pibil.