Uchi still reigns as a hot spot for mind-blowing sushi and modern Japanese dishes, all exquisitely plated. Impeccable fish from Tokyo’s Toyosu market fills the menu; we relished the less common offerings, like the umami-tinged yagara (cornet fish) and flavorful kurodai (black snapper). The sublime madai crudo featured clean-flavored Japanese bream and delicate curls of Asian pear, enlivened with Japanese ginger, yuzu kosho (a fermented chile-salt-citrus condiment), and lemon oil. Meat gets its due too: charred cubes of kabocha squash made an earthy-sweet complement to slow-roasted pork belly, and A5 Hot Rock brought top-grade, buttery Wagyu beef that we seared over a screaming-hot rock and dipped in mushroom tentsuyu (tempura sauce). Creative vegetarian dishes also impressed. If the lengthy menu overwhelms you, tell the server your budget and let the kitchen compose your meal.