Chris Shepherd is an inventive chef, and the results often prove amazing. This was the case with our first course on a late-summer visit to his handsome Montrose eatery: petite blistered peppers combined with sweet cherry tomatoes in a miso glaze. An inspired combo, perfectly rendered. The grilled pork collar, however, would have benefited from a sauce with more contrast than its rather bland bourbon-apple jam. We relished the field pea succotash and Shepherd’s version of the farm wife’s make-do vinegar pie, sparked with shards of salt brittle, but we still don’t get the accolades afforded the Korean dumplings, which we’ve found either tough or gummy on various tries. Our next visit definitely calls for sampling the house-made charcuterie, along with more of the Provence-like Dead Flowers rosé from Yellow City Cellars, in the Texas High Plains.