We are not quite sure what to make of our recent foray into Chris Shepherd’s award-winning restaurant. Nearly everything we tried seemed off in seasoning, beginning with a salad of greens, tomato (hard and dry), bacon, radishes, and roasted shallots in a black peppercorn dressing (described by the waiter as a new treatment); it was so overwhelmingly peppery we couldn’t finish it. Crispy brussels sprouts in caramelized fish sauce came off very salty. Though not overseasoned, the pork belly with wine-braised mushrooms and corn porridge (not cheap at $28) had much more fat than meat. Even the Korean braised goat (with its usual amount of heat) suffered, from gummy dumplings. Still, we could not fault the service, and we love the great casual setting, the walls lined with wine bottles and jars of preserves. (4/15)

City: Houston


Drinks: Bar

Price: $$$


Address: 1100 Westheimer Rd., Houston, TX, 77006

Hours: L Mon-Fri. D Mon-Sat.

Phone: 713-528-9800

Website: underbellyhouston.com

Last updated: April 7, 2013