With a steady pace of weekend diners on the South Lamar corridor, this sleek modern-American eatery has garnered a reputation for innovative cuisine and clever cocktails. The smoked yellowtail with Thai chile, pickled cucumber, and coconut-soy vinaigrette tasted delicious but felt a little overthought; squeezing a plastic pipette in the mouth while taking a bite of a mini-shish kebab was a little too involved for our table. But crispy pork cracklin’s with citrusy aioli and piquant brava sauce offered a festive change of pace. The beat kept on with a bowl of tender calamari noodles bathed in a creamy roasted corn sauce with smoked tomatoes, crispy Spanish chorizo, and house-made corn nuts, as well as with a plate of medium-rare flatiron steak with mini twice-baked potatoes topped with a perfectly coddled egg. Sated and happy, we finished with a Japanese selection from the extensive list of whiskeys from around the world.