Two years after losing his downtown lease, friendly chef David Guerrero has resurrected his popular South American restaurant in a narrow, intimate space within the bustling architectural marvel of POST Houston. A ceviche evangelist, he believes that in time, the marinated fish will rival sushi in popularity, and over the course of our visit he convinced us. The menu offers cuisine from seven South American countries, and while ceviche rules, other dishes deserve your attention. A crunchy cachapa (a Venezuelan corn pancake) stuffed with wonderfully stretchy cheese got us rolling, along with a trio of beef-and-potato empanadas. The star of the show followed, a tiradito Nikkei: blending Japanese and Peruvian flavors, the dish featured strips of fresh hamachi with a yuzu tiger’s milk and aji amarillo. We scooped it all up with the crispy skin of a striped bass—ingenious! Antarctic salmon sashimi from Tierra del Fuego, served with torched avocado and chimichurri, rated as the creamiest we’ve had, and the ceviche embrujado (“haunted”) with mahimahi, minced razor clams, chopped black clams, uni, and more, was a full-plate adventure. The only downsides? An Argentine-style skirt steak and an Ecuadorian roasted pork leg, both of which were overcooked.