Given the powerful noise levels at brunch and on many evenings, we often opt for bargain-priced bar dining, available until 6 p.m. We recently got to sample lots of hearty Southern fare for $20: chili biscuits, little rounds stuffed with chocolate-tinged chili; fried green tomatoes, lightly battered in cornmeal with a spicy aioli and a dab of goat cheese; a generous ramekin loaded with macaroni and gooey cheese; and truffled (and somewhat tough) brussels sprouts topped with a fried egg. One of us had the fortitude to order a main course: the Yardbird, a brined and slow-fried breast and thigh—huge, boned, and fork tender—served with smoked mashed potatoes, braised pork–spiked collard greens, and a honey-and-thyme jus. Servers are friendly, and the old house is cozy. The patio makes a good option on mild days.