I’ve always thought my mother’s pumpkin pie beat all others. It’s light and fluffy, not like the usual boring, flat, brown Thanksgiving pie. The only caveat is that because it’s a custard pie, with eggs and milk, it can puff up and spill in your oven. You will have to evacuate the house. (Don’t ask how I know this.) Put the pie pan on a baking sheet to cook and avoid regret.

1 1/2 cups canned pumpkin
3/4 cups light brown sugar
1/4 cup white sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg (freshly grated is best)
1 teaspoon cinnamon
2 eggs, slightly beaten
1 1/2 cups evaporated milk (not sweetened condensed)
1/2 cup whole milk
1 uncooked pie shell, homemade or bought

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a mixing bowl, combine the pumpkin, sugar, salt, and spices. Add the eggs and the two milks and mix thoroughly.

Put the pie shell in the oven for about 5 minutes to set the bottom. Remove it and pour in the filling; just fill about 3/4 full. Bake for 10 minutes more at 425, then reduce heat to 350 and continue baking until a knife inserted in center comes out clean, about 30 minutes—but it can take longer. If the edge of the crust browns too fast, make a little collar of aluminum foil and place around it. Serve with whipped cream and a sprinkle of nutmeg or cinnamon.