The sleek dining room with a glitzy bar at one end and a large chef’s table at the other is a fine place to see and be seen. The menu has seen some positive changes, with more on the way. Whatever the season, the ceviches are always a great start, as is the brothy, oniony huitlacoche soup, unusual in that it skips the cream. After that? Move along to the ribeye or the cast-iron-fried crusted rack of lamb. You can also opt for such Texas standards as a jumbo chicken-fried steak with Southern cream gravy. The service is as knowledgeable as it is polished.