With bread and pastries like this we forgive the lack of curbside pickup (it’s offered on the website, but at this location, they asked us to come in, so take your mask). Everything is handmade with exceptional ingredients like miller’s flour and small-farm milk and eggs, and the Thomas Keller–trained duo at the head of the operation means any choice is way beyond what’s in your larder. The takeout menu is limited, ever changing, and location specific, so check the website. Order this to go: sturdy sandwiches on sourdough bread travel the best, and the BL BLT, with pancetta, tomato, perfect avocado,and garlic aioli, is the best of the bunch. You’ll fight over the tarts, croissants, and pastries at home, so get some extras for breakfast. Pro tip: While the pastries seduce, don’t forget a loaf or two of the sourdough; they must weigh two pounds each, are easy to freeze, and toast on demand. And you don’t have to keep feeding that starter at home.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.