This neighborhood bistro focuses on snout-to-hoof preparations, with meaty mains sliced up for family-style sharing. Order this to go: Get the superlative tomato-leaf pasta. Pale green and subtly herbal, the fresh ricotta melds with the tomato fruit to make an unctuous sauce that coats the short pasta ropes (even picky toddlers asked for seconds). A meaty dish, crispy hunks of flavorful, fatty Berkshire pork sat astride fresh corn succotash. Although the Gruyère popovers were less than transcendent after a car ride, they were still fine dunked in the accompanying charred-onion butter (and provided a nice break from our sourdough heavy “carb-intine”). Also order the pie: ours had a great crust and local blackberries swirled into the buttermilk filling. Pro tip: Vegetables change with the seasons, but the preparations are familiar, with just a touch of the unexpected.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.